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By Craig LaBan
Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Nov 23, 2008
There's a reason this petite sirah from Lodi's Michael-David Vineyards is called "Earthquake." It delivers such an intense concentration of inky dark fruit and tannins, it practically rumbles across the palate. Unlike some other, less artful versions of this brawny grape (actually durif, not a misspelled cousin to syrah), this 2005 vintage, discounted by $9 in Pennsylvania, wraps that power with some finesse.
There's a haze of cocoa behind the first burst of blackberry syrup, a tremor of tart fruit, a tarry aftershock of black licorice, and then a long, quiet vanilla calm on the finish. A tooth-coating smack of tannins, though, is a Richter-like reminder of the punch behind the last sip.
The 2005 Earthquake Petite Sirah costs $18.99 in selected Pennsylvania state wine stores.
- Craig LaBan
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